HISTORY OF COSTUME RENAISSANCE (1400

HISTORY OF COSTUME: RENAISSANCE (1400-1600) Men: 1400-1450 Doublet and hose Italian Renaissance Women: 1400-1450 Houppelandes and fitted gowns Italian Renaissance Men: 1450-1500 Doublet under skirted jacket and hose Italian Renaissance Women: 1450-1500 Gowns worn either as a single layer or two layers Italian Renaissance Men: (c. 1510) 1500-1550 Clothes grow wider, often decorated with puffs and slashes Italian Renaissance Women: 1500-1550 Gowns are full, have puffed sleeves; are decorated with puffs and slashes Italian Renaissance Men: 1550-1600 Silhouette widens, jackets take on rigid shape, puffs and slashes increase Italian Renaissance Women: late 1500s Spanish influences appear in more rigid bodices, V-shaped waistlines Italian Renaissance Very high platform-soled shoes worn by women throughout Italy and in northern Europe during the Renaissance; soles were especially high in Venice Chopines Codpiece A pouch of fabric that was sewn into the crotch of hose to accommodate the genitals, make the hose fit properly, and enable men to relieve themselves. It closed with laces and first appeared during the Late Middle Ages. With added padding it became an obvious feature of mens clothing; went out of use by the 17th century. What Fibers were woven primarily in Italy? Wool and Silk At this time, Italian dress and that of Northern Europe diverged. (p.190) the second half of the 15th century. These components distinguished Italian Renaissance styles. (p.190) Sleeves The most common combination of garments for women during the Italian Renaissance was a chemise worn as an undergarment beneath a dress and an overdress on top ferroniere a chain or band of metal or pearls worn across the forehead Doublet closely fitted, sleeveless garment with a padded front; originated as military dress. (p. 155) Trunk Hose Breeches worn by men in the mid-16th century that were joined to nether stocks; ranged in size from very wide and padded to very small and worn with tight-fitting hose Canions Extensions from the end of the trunk hose to the knees or slightly below, made in either the same or a contrasting color with the trunk hose or fastened to separate stockings at the bottom; used by men in the late 16th century Gown/Robe Fitted smoothly through the body with tight-fitting, long sleeves; opened down the front. mameluke sleeve a long sleeve of repeating puffs down its length, banded between the puffs Spanish Farthingale (p. 220) provided support to the flared, cone-shaped skirt; a construction of whalebone, cane, or steel hoops graduated in size from the waist to the floor and sewn into a petticoat or underskirt. Garment constructed of whalebone, cane, or steel hoops graduated in size from the waist to the floor and sewn into a petticoat or underskirt that provided support to the flared, cone-shaped skirt; first appeared in the mid-16th century; also called verdugale French Farthingale Womens undergarment used for shaping floor-length dresses; steel or cane spokes of the same diameter were fastened from a topmost hoop at the waistband down; also known as a wheel farthingale or drum farthingale Bum Roll Padded roll placed around the waist in order to give skirts greater width below the waist; popular in the late 16th century Ruff Wide, separate collar used during the second half of the 16th century and the first decades of the 17th century; often made of lace and stiffly starched Peascod Belly Pronounced front of the doublet popular by 1570 that resembled the puffed-out chest of a peacock Duckbills Wide mens shoes from the 16th century with decorations including slashing with puffs of fabric pulled through the openings; shape resembled the bill of a duck Slashing Cuts in the fabric through which an underlayer of contrasting colored fabric might be pulled; especially popular during the Renaissance Period Puffs Decorative device used on clothing of the Middle Ages in which small amounts of fabric in contrasting colors were pulled through slashes made in the outermost fabric layer Blackwork embroidery a form of embroidery using black thread on white cloth Busk A device made from a long, flat piece of wood or whalebone that was sewn into one or more casings in corsets of the early 16th century